![]() ![]() Purchase ONLY a Mopar water pump, from the Dodge Dealer. First we take a quick look at the water pump. You can see the two weep hole passages (encircled by orange gasket) at the top and bottom of it. I would suggest leaving the oil drain plug out, so any water or mess can flow out of the oil pan as you are working on the car.įinally, remove the water pump. The left guide has a spacer that likes to drop into the pan when you remove it also (ask me how I know). It wont be fun getting a bolt out of there. Keep in mind, the cams will rotate about 20 degrees clockwise when the sprockets are removed, this is normal.īe especially careful NOT to drop anything into the open oil pan below. Starting with the left (passenger side) cam sprocket, remove the two bolts holding the sprocket to the camshaft. Remove the primary timing chain tensioner cover, and tensioner. Remove the cam sensor and three cylinder head plugs on the front of the engine. Marks on camshafts must be pointing as shown, and the arrow on the oil pump housing must be aligned with the slot in the crankshaft sprocket. You will use the gold plated links in the chain on re-assembly, they do not have to be lined up at this time. DO NOT rotate the engine after this point. Using the procedure in the factory service manual, set up your timing chains and sprockets so that all timing marks are aligned. Remove the front cover, finally you can see the water pump: Now, remove the alternator and a/c belt tensioner brackets, and the power steering pump.this will allow you access to remove the front timing cover. Using the Chrysler Harmonic balancer puller (OTC 6284), remove the balancer. Next, remove the valve covers and plenum. This is also a good time to inspect the trans cooler lines for leaks. Check and replace the lower radiator hose if needed. Disconnect the battery, remove the air filter assembly, intake plenum, upper engine wiring harness, cooling fans, and upper radiator hose. Remove the upper radiator support, and drain the coolant. I will not outline everything word for word, so if you need steps on how to remove a specific component, it is all in the service manual, available here, or I can email you a copy if you shoot me a PM. Here are the first steps of replacing the water pump. These surge tanks will crack right near where the words "MIN" and "MAX" are embossed on the sides: ![]() On this car, all that was good, and someone has recently replaced the water outlet: Of course, check other places as well, including the water outlet, and the surge tank for cracks/leaks, and all the hoses. Your oil pan will need to be dropped, the engine flushed out, and the rod/main bearings inspected and or replaced, or replacement of the engine with a rebuilt unit. If this is the case with your engine, it is likely that you will need more than just a water pump/timing chain replacement. These also have the potential to leak into the oil, and cause the oil to assume a "milkshake" appearance. If it leaks there, water will run out of the valley at the back of the engine and drip down around the transmission. There are two weep holes on a 2.7, one is pictured, the other is below the lower intake manifold. It began overheating randomly, and upon inspection I found water leaking from the water pump weep hole, just below the thermostat housing. ![]() The car is a 2003 Intrepid with 73K miles. This is not a job for the faint-of-heart, nor a job for those with no automotive knowledge. Now, here is what is involved and how to replace a water pump on a 2.7. I am posting this thread as a supplement to my "info for 2.7 owners" thread above, as this job is part of 2.7 ownership, guaranteed. ![]()
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